Photographer: Hilla Kurki

Fashion and print designer Tuuli-Tytti Koivula creates whimsical and singular clothing. Although fashion was not a typical career path in her small town growing up, she still pursued it by studying at Aalto University and holding positions in renowned fashion houses such as Prada and Courrèges. The up-and-coming designer talked to NYOTA about being recognized for her designs at Fashion in Helsinki, her advice for aspiring designers, and how her designs help people step out of their comfort zones.

Has clothing always been a way you felt you could express yourself? 

I grew up in a small town where you would easily get bullied if you were even a bit different from others, so it was very hard at times to express yourself. I always wanted to show the bullies that their opinions didn’t matter, and that made me very passionate about art and design. I have always been interested in clothes and making them, but I didn’t have as much time as I wanted to make clothing because I was always skiing. I basically grew up on slopes wearing a race suit. Alpine skiing required a lot of traveling in a car, especially in Finland since the biggest hills are in the north, so sometimes I was knitting and crocheting or even stitching clothes by hand in the car! 

What skills did you learn at Aalto University that you carry with you in your career today?

I was lucky to have some of the best teachers and workshop bases in the whole world. While I studied at Aalto, it was ranked in the top three fashion schools internationally. We had a very good, deep, and broad education, which also included a lot of critical thinking. I was able to not only study fashion and clothing but also to learn in-depth about design, printmaking, knitting, and theoretical thinking. I have always been a person who suffers from imposter syndrome, but while working internationally, I have gained a lot of trust and belief in the capabilities I gained at Aalto.

It can be daunting for people to be bold with their clothing, and designs like yours can allow someone to step out of their comfort zone. Do you hope that your clothes can inspire others to have more fun with their outfits?

That’s exactly what I’d hope for! It’s so inspiring to see people dress in a unique way and express themselves freely, as well as explore new styles. I believe fashion and clothes should definitely be fun and positive things, and that’s one of my core values. It can also be easier to be confident when you are wearing something unique. You become the leading character of your story. I also think dressing up boldly can lead to more positive connections and attract like-minded people; it is very important to encourage others and more openly give positive feedback to each other.

Through your collections, you reinvent the way people look at items that are usually very plain. For example, your BLUMENTAL collection focused on Skiwear. Where do you look for inspiration and ideas when it comes to your collections?

The inspiration can come from anywhere and the whole artistic process can be very therapeutic. For me it’s easiest to draw inspiration from my own experiences or folk stories. Currently, I am very inspired by my dreams; they are always very vivid, and there is some thriller or adventure going on. And of course, everyone is dressed up in a very special way in my dreams. I really would like to explore and execute those ideas next.

You’ve worked in fashion houses like Prada and Raf Simons. Did having experiences at these larger companies help sharpen your eye for fashion?

Definitely, it is a treasure I cherish. You see so many things when you’re working [at a fashion house], compared to when you’re working by yourself. Especially when the inspirations are someone else’s, there’s always something new and it pushes you to learn and adapt new skills. It is very inspiring to see closely how the top industry professionals work and how they see the world of art and culture.

Your work is being recognized at this year’s Fashion in Helsinki event. When you showcase work in this setting, are you very specific about deciding which pieces to highlight and what best shows your personality as a designer?

I am very honored to get the recognition, and I am very happy that Fashion in Helsinki keeps growing. I am grateful to people like Miia Koski and Martta Louekari, who are resiliently working for all our benefit by building bridges between different professionals and communities. In events like these, it is important to highlight the liveliest pieces, the pieces people would definitely notice and which could make people inspired. When revisiting my own work, it also makes me think of new ideas that I would like to be executing next.

What is the fashion community like in Helsinki? Are people very open to wearing up-and-coming designers and buying from local clothing stores?

We have a lovely community, young designers are especially well connected, and we share our knowledge and experiences, among other things. For us, it is important to help each other, keep a positive spirit, and make the Finnish industry stand out. There are more and more people who are interested in the new designer names and unique clothes, but I hope there will be more people who would like to be playful! By nature, Finnish people are more about the functionality than about looks, which is unfortunate for us who like to make a statement and make life more fun. It is a difficult market for emerging designers in Finland, but as I see the new fashion wave getting stronger and stronger, I am hopeful and proud of being part of it.

What advice do you have for aspiring fashion designers?

It’s better to be original than follow the trends, even though it feels hard at times. Believe in yourself and be positive about the future—it is only up to us to make it a reality. Along the way, be nice to others and remember to connect and reach out to people all across the world. Go out in the world and collect the spring flowers!

This story first ran in NYOTA’s Art is Life Issue. Read more from the issue here and purchase a print copy here